A Review Of Guerlain L’Art et la Matiere - Angelique Noire, Cuir Beluga, Rose Barbare
Guerlain’s L’Art et la Matiere introduced a trio of fragrances in 2005 featuring three perfumers who were invited to design their own fragrances for Guerlain. These perfumes were created to coincide with the opening of the newly renovated Guerlain flagship store in Champs Elysees. According to the fragrance house, “This act of true creation is a hymn to precious and rare raw materials, and differs by its originality.”
Angelique Noire was created by Daniela Andrier. The notes are angelica seeds, pink berries, pear, jasmine, sambac, caraway, vanilla, angelica roots and cedar. This starts off as slightly bittersweet accompanied by faint green undertones, perhaps arising from the angelica accords. The scent grows warmer over time and develops into something sweet, hints of fruits and vanilla arises, but the green notes linger albeit in miniscule amounts in the background. Angelique Noire is consistent with maintaining subtlety in the dry down. This fragrance is expertly blended.
Rose Barbare, as the name implies, centers on one of Guerlain’s favorite ingredients, the rose. The nose behind this fragrance is Francis Kurkdjian. This perfume is described as “an opposition to stereotypes, in a way that would be unexpected, untamable and contemporary… vibrant, floral heady”; hence, the name Rose Barbare which literally translates to Bar barian Rose. The notes are aldehydes, rose essence, rose absolu, fenygreek, peach honey, patchouli and notes of undergrowth. The fragrance description doesn’t really sit well with the impressive olfactory statement at first whiff. The rose component is airy and smoky; it is pronounced but not heady or obtrusive. This fragrance is just right in all aspects. If you’re on the fence with rose-inspired fragrances in the past, Guerlain’s version of the modern day rose will dazzle you with its versatility.
Cuir Beluga was designed by Olivier Polge and the main element in this fragrance is leather, another Guerlain favorite raw material. With this fragrance, Guerlain wants to evoke luxury and femininity without the animalistic notes of leather. Cuir Beluga has a vintage appeal; amber, vanilla and aldehydes are most prominent. The leather factor is quite soft and the base is somehow reminiscent of Shalimar’s.
Guerlain also launched new fragrances in the L’art et la Matiere collection. Cruel Gardenia, Iris Ganache and Bois d’Armenie are the more recent fragrances to the series.
Learn more about Guerlain’s exclusive fragrances at discount perfume online store, scentiments.com.